Slice: Harriet Brasserie

By Joy Summers June 28, 2012

Categories: Featured - Home Page, Food & Dining, Our Scene

Hill Burger. Photos by Hubert Bonnet

Strolling through Linden Hills is like stepping into an idyllic small town. The stunning patio at Sebastian Joe’s is full of ruddy-cheeked youngsters clutching dripping ice cream cones. Friendly folks come and go from the corner hardware store. Home cooks wait for special cuts of quality cuts from the counter at Clancey’s Meats. Young mothers push spilling-over strollers past Wild Rumpus books. All of the people are also likely to find a perfect perch on the new patio at Harriet Brasserie.

The patio is a perfect place to while away the hours, watching as the neighborhood walks past. There is nothing so wonderful as a bit of morning sun, a cool early-day breeze and a few plates of food from this new neighborhood gem.

The dinner menu is still being sorted out, but the brunch is fully operational, so we’ll stick to talking about those dishes. Harriet Brasserie is owned by Alain Lenne (who also owns the La Belle Crepe in downtown Minneapolis) Helen Hamman and Fernando Silvo, who is leading the kitchen. Silvo comes from French Meadow and the baking clearly shows that experience.  The savory scone is a brilliant representation of that experience; the flaky layers of dough, packed with flavorful blue cheese  was a revelatory taste.

tres leches

The signature tres leches cake had a wonderfully mild, cream-drenched flavor; an exercise in restraint.

Many dishes make use of their three acre plot of farm land outside of Lakevill-. A perfect taste of the early summer season was the chilled pea soup, topped with salty, smoked trout roe and house made croutons. It was brilliantly colored, delicately textured, and full of grassy, fresh flavor with bracing little bits of the salty roe.

The burger was great brasserie fare, the crispy, russet colored fries were addictive and would be perfectly paired with a pint. They appropriately have Harriet Brewing on tap.

Speaking of alcohol, the wine list is stacked with great, affordable bottles and glasses. It’s not often easy to find a delicious glass for all of $6, but there are multiple options on this list.

Co-owners Alain and Fernando

The Szechuan style tofu was tossed with a black bean sauce– hot, saucy, and hard to walk away from, while again, not all that spicy. The tofu and fried yucca were great texture companions, but the greens they were served with didn’t seem to fit in with the rest of the dish.

While there was a lot of love and swooning over some dishes, not every plate was a hit. The craw-fish and grits were a sad plate of mush, flat on flavor.

Meanwhile, the attentive service quickly addressed any issue. Service was exceptional on every visit, save one, where the server was clearly new. They’ll get the kinks worked out.  Harriet Brasserie is another fine addition to this adorable pocket of Minneapolis.

Crab Benedict

Pancakes

Dining Room

Newsy Bits:

Another truck moves to brick and mortar. Foxy Falafel announced this week that she’s taken up residence in the former Caribe storefront. She’s planning to open in late July or early August.

Fitger’s Brewhouse, known for their fantastic brews, phenomenal wild rice burger, and crave-worthy beer battered fries and onion rings is moving into the former Trocadero’s space in downtown Minneapolis.

Chef Scott Pampuch bids adieu to Minneapolis: the local food advocate moved from his restaurant Corner Table to the Minnesota Valley Country Club to Iron Horse, a Harley-friendly hotel in Milwaukee.

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